2013年10月16日星期三

Hodinkees Watch Report Longines Chronograph Legacy The GQ Eye GQ on Style GQ

相关的主题文章:

Introduced in the 1936, the Caliber 13ZN was a large 13 1/4 ligne movement, meaning it was almost 30 mm in diameter. The large diameter was purposeful, as the caliber would be placed into several aviation-oriented chronographs. It is a beautifully finished movement, and one of the first "fly-back movements", meaning it was not required to stop the chronograph before resetting it. The 13ZN also featured a semi-instantaneous minute hand, so instead of the minute hand creeping along continuously, it would remain in position until the second hand hit 60 and then jump. It may not sound like much, but these details weren't seen together again until A. Lange & Sohne released their monumental Datograph movement in 1999, which is now arguably the benchmark for chronograph design--hell, .

13ZN chronographs are highly regarded by educated collectors and because, well, Longines isn't what it used to be, they can be had for a relative bargain when compared to the Pateks and Vacherons from the similar time period. A nice example of a 13ZN can be found for under $10,000 in gold. Like with many collectible vintage watches, steel examples will be more costly than those in gold simply because they are more wearable and desired by collectors, but all 13ZN's will have that lovely 1940's dress chronograph look that you seldom see today. ,women watches, or those with a can climb into BMW-like price ranges.

Longines has,patek philippe, though, started to come around to understanding the value of their previous life as a high-end, in-house manufacturer and over the past three years, their has produced some very nice looking watches. Additionally, Swatch has started to reserve some interesting higher end movements to be used exclusively in Longines chronographs. Particularly appealing modern Longines chronos include the and the based on

The 13ZN chronograph gave way to the 30CH chronograph, which was a similarly designed and slightly upgraded (though somewhat less desirable now) in-house chronograph, before Longines ceased the production of in-house chronographs in the mid-1960s. They then began using Valjoux,hamilton watches, Venus, and Lemania chronograph movements just like everyone else. So, next time you see an old chronograph that happens to say "Longines" on the dial, it might be worth a second look. Often times, uneducated dealers will price them well below market value--and that's a very, very good thing for you.

Collector's Tip: Mono-pushers and 13ZN's those with central minute hands are the most valuable and rare examples. Pay close attention to any 13ZN you find. Longines also has one of the most responsive heritage departments in the industry. If you with the movement numbers of your old watch, they'll get back to you usually within 24 hours with the year and any details of the watch they might have in their archives.

Benjamin Clymer is the founder and executive editor of HODINKEE. For the latest in horological news, reviews, and original stories, visit

More Hodinkee on GQ.com:

没有评论:

发表评论